One of the first “recipes” on this blog was No-Recipe Cherry Jam, posted in 2005. Why some hyperventilated about making something without an exact recipe, a lot of people successfully used those guidelines to make cherry jam over the last fifteen years. The basis for it was how I’ve been making jam forever; use 3 parts sugar to 4 parts fruit puree. The standard ratio is to use equal parts sugar to fruit puree but I like to use less.
When I scored a full flat of griottes (sour cherries) at the market last week, which are a rare find at the markets. They were well-priced (€10!), which made them even harder to resist bringing them home. Sour cherries don’t last long after they are picked; within 24 hours they’ll start losing their luster and need to be used. So I made cherry jam.
The food world has changed a lot and posting a one-size-fits-all technique, rather than a recipe, doesn’t work for a number of people. So I decided to go with the flow and make some jam, sharing exactly what I did in recipe form this time around.
A friend in Germany recently wrote to me, “Regarding jam ‘recipes’…once you understand the formula/principle, you are good to go…”
I guess nowadays I fall squarely in both camps. Some things, like brownies, custards, and cakes, are recipes where precise measuring, and combining them correctly, are the most important. Whereas bread recipes, macarons, and jam-making are more technique-driven and it’s strictly about measuring out things and mixing them together, but you’ll need to rely on tactile and visual clues, rather than precise cooking times.
Feeling the dough when making bread, or in this case, checking the jam texture on a chilled plate is the best way to tell you when it’s done. (As an example, jam usually sets between 218-220ºF,103-104ºC, but this one set a few degrees higher.) I can tell you how to whip cream or make caramel in detail, but once you’ve done it a couple of times, you know what to look out for.
The biggest question I get about jam recipes has to do with reducing the amount of sugar in them. It can seem like a lot when you’re adding it, but sugar in jam does a couple of things. One, it helps the mixture jell, along with the pectin in the fruit. And two, it preserves it. If you use less, the jam will be runnier and won’t last as long.
Cherries have very little pectin, especially sour cherries, and because I don’t add additional pectin (like they do here), you can expect this cherry jam to be on the soft side. Europeans tend to like their jams runnier than their American counterparts, so in the morning, you can have a European experience when you spoon some of this jam on your morning toast, as we do.
The upside is that the cherry jam is delicious. I’ve reduced the sugar in this recipe even further and don’t mind the soft-set. Unlike other jams that wrinkle when you do the wrinkle test (putting a spoonful of jam on a frozen plate, returning the plate to the freezer and when the jam wrinkles with you nudge it, it’s done), this one will be more like thickened syrup. It’s done when it’s thick and sticky and holds its shape for a few moments after you drag a spoon through it (below.) The cherries will be shiny and glossy, and almost candied, but not stiff.
Cherry Jam
I've not canned this jam. Jam isn't so fragile and will keep for several weeks or months, especially if you refrigerate it. If you want canning instructions for jams, you can find them here (PDF.) If you only have 1 pound (450g) of cherries, you can cut the recipe in half. The liqueur is optional but it heightens the flavors of the jam. Use only enough so it complements the fruit - you don't want to overwhelm it.Note that this jam will be on the runny side, which is normal. Sour cherries will produce a softer-set jam than sweet cherries, but either will be delicious...or do a mix of both. If you want a thicker jam, increase the sugar to 3 cups (600g).
- 2 pounds (900g) sweet or sour cherries, or a mix
- 2 1/2 cups (500g) sugar
- freshly squeezed juice of one medium lemon, plus additional juice if desired
- 1-2 drops of almond extract , or 1-2 teaspoons of kirsch or another liqueur, such as amaretto, gin, or whiskey
Remove the stems and pit the cherries. Put them in a large non-reactive pot. If using sweet cherries, add 2-3 tablespoons of water to the pot. (Sour cherries will exude enough liquid on their own so no need to add additional water.) Put a small plate or saucer in the freezer.
Cover the pot and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the cherries are wilted and cooked through, about 10 minutes.
Remove the lid and stir in the sugar and lemon juice. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring frequently until the mixture thickens. It's hard to say how long it will take, but when the mixture resembles the sixth picture in the post, the one in the pot with the bubbles, turn off the heat and test the jam by putting a small spoonful on the frozen dish. Return the dish to the freezer for a few minutes until the jam on it is cool. Run a spoon through it and if the liquid is very thick and leaves a clear patch, as shown in the photo in the post, it's done. If not, return the plate to the freezer and continue to cook the jam, testing it at various intervals, until it's done. (If you want to use a thermometer to check the jam, it should be ready somewhere between 220º and 225ºF, 104º-107ºC.)
When ready, turn off the heat and stir in the almond extract or liqueur (or both, if you wish). If desired, you could add an extra squeeze of lemon juice to balance the sweetness. Ladle into clean jars.
Notes
Storage: This jam will last several weeks in the refrigerator. If you wish to can it, you can find instructions in the headnote before the recipe.
Note: If you want to repurpose the cherry pits, they can be used for making sour cherry syrup.
FAQs
Jam: Jam is made with mashed fruit. Preserves: Preserves have whole fruit or large pieces of fruit. Some fruits such as blackberries or raspberries will not stay whole during the processing so there may not be much difference between raspberry jam and raspberry preserve.
Does lemon juice thicken jam? ›
Lemon is crucial to balancing those sweet flavors, but it also helps the pectin to firm up the jam. It can be added at the start of the cooking process or towards the end, but what must be taken into account is that adding liquids to the jam mixture will inevitably require the jam to cook for longer.
What are the proportions for jam? ›
(2)Most jam recipes call for a 1:1 ratio of fruit to sugar. I usually use a 75 % ratio, or 1 ½ pounds of sugar to every 2 pounds of fruit, unless the fruit is not very sweet, in which case, I adjust accordingly. I don't recommend going below 75 % because the sugar is also acting as the preservative for the fruit.
How much pectin to use? ›
How much pectin do I need to add? The amount of pectin needed to thicken your jam varies depending on the fruit and the other ingredients, as well as how thick you prefer your jam, however, as a rough guide, 3g for every kilogram of fruit, or 1.5 teaspoons of powdered pectin for every cup of jam.
Which is healthier jam or preserves? ›
Preserves are the closest thing to consuming whole fruit. They contain chunks of the actual fruit, making them richer in fiber and nutrients. As with jam, though, the sugar content can vary based on the brand or recipe. In terms of health benefits, preserves generally come out on top due to their whole fruit content.
How do you thicken cherry jam? ›
Add pectin.
While this trick won't work for jam recipes that already call for pectin, adding pectin to a loose batch of jam while re-cooking it almost guarantees that the jam with set back up nicely. Whisk a tablespoon of powdered pectin (preferably the no-sugar-needed variety) into the pot of cooking jam.
What happens if you don't put lemon juice in jam? ›
If your recipe called for lemon juice and you forgot to put it in, your mixture will not be acid enough for safe canning. You have to open the jars and put the mixture into a sauce pan.
What happens if you add sugar before pectin? ›
Do not vary the sequence in which the ingredients are added. For example, powdered pectin does not dissolve in a sugared solution, so if you add the sugar and then the dry pectin, the jam will not be firm. Be sure you use a kettle large enough to accommodate the preserves when they are brought to a full rolling boil.
What can I use instead of pectin for jam? ›
Pectin Substitute
- Citrus Peels - Naturally high in pectin, you can substitute citrus peels for pectin.
- Cornstarch - Another plant-based thickening agent, cornstarch is a great substitute for pectin.
- Gelatin - For non-vegan menu items, you can substitute gelatin for pectin, but it will yield a different consistency.
Coarse-grain white granulated sugar is best for jam-making as it ensures a good clear jam, but fine caster sugar can also be used. The coarse grains dissolve more slowly and evenly, giving a better result. Granulated sugar with added pectin is also available, but it shouldn't be necessary to use this.
When do I add sugar? Citrus fruit peel, blackcurrants, and gooseberries must be thoroughly softened before sugar is added, as sugar has a hardening on the fruit. If you add the sugar too early, no amount of boiling will soften the rind or skins. You can vary the amount of sugar you use to taste.
How do I know when my jam is done? ›
Pop a plate in the freezer at the beginning of your cooking time. Once you think that your jam has reached its setting point or has thickened, spoon a bit of the jam on the cold plate and tilt it vertically so the jam runs. You are aiming for a slow descent, not a runny mess. If it runs slow, it's set!
What happens if you add too much pectin to jam? ›
You will need approximately half the amount of pectin that is indicated by your recipe. Please be careful when adding pectin as too much will leave you with a set that is too solid and it is not possible to rectify this so always add less than you think is necessary and test the set and then add more if required.
What is the secret in making jam? ›
Pectin, naturally found in fruit is vital to make your jam set. With low-pectin fruits like strawberries, help them along by either mixing with pectin-rich fruit like gooseberries or by using jam sugar (with added pectin and citric acid).
What are the side effects of too much pectin? ›
Special Precautions and Warnings
When taken by mouth: Pectin is commonly consumed in food amounts. It is possibly safe when used in larger amounts for up to one year. It's usually well-tolerated. Side effects might include diarrhea, gas, and stomachcramps.
What are cherry preserves used for? ›
It serves as a delicious filling for cupcakes, a tasty topping for waffles, or a delicious base for fruit sauces. Available in: 12 oz Glass Jar, 18 oz Glass Jar.
Which is thicker jam or preserves? ›
Fruit preserves are a lot like jam, but they're slightly thicker, thanks to the addition of large chunks or whole pieces of fruit instead of chopped, crushed, or puréed fruit. You'll usually find large bits of fruit suspended in preserves, as well as seeds, in many cases.
Can I use jam instead of preserves? ›
Which spread should you use? That depends on what you're trying to do. For sandwiches, jelly or jam is preferred as they spread easier. For recipes, preserves would deliver more fruit flavor, though jam could also be used.
Do cherry preserves need to be refrigerated? ›
To protect the shelf-life and quality of your jams and jellies, it's best to store them in the refrigerator. The cold temperature will significantly slow down the growth of microorganisms, according to Alvin Lee, Ph. D., associate professor of food and nutrition at Illinois Institute of Technology.
